Sunday, September 14, 2008

Capri e' l'isola che non si scorda mai.


We saw that phrase on the awning of a little shop in Capri.

This weekend is hard to describe. I guess I could start by saying it was the embodiment of how I pictured Italy before I got here.

This was my first weekend away from Rome since we've been here, which is only three weeks, but it still felt very nice to get away. I actually didn't realize how busy, loud, and fairly chaotic Rome can be. We went to the region of Campania on Friday; and within that we visited the ancient ruins of Pompeii for half a day, made our way to Sorrento for the night, woke up early Saturday to make our way to the island of Capri for the rest of the day. 

Pompeii is definitely in the top of the coolest-things-I've-ever-seen list. I think, at first, I thought it would just be another boring tour, but there was absolutely nothing boring about this place. The most fascinating part about it is how much it has actually been preserved. When we were walking around, guided by our dear tour guide, Antonio, and hearing about what each structure was and how it was used, I could really get a picture of what life would have been like before 79 A.D. It was very surreal to be walking around the ruins of a city, a place where people lived and walked. There were remnants of things that equate our modern-day "fast food" restaurants, crosswalks, theaters, even brothels! Maybe the fact that we got lucky with the weather helped the enjoyment. It was warm, but cloudy and breezy, so we weren't sweating profusely. It really was incredible. Antonio was quite fun, also. He seemed pretty savvy on American pop music and bust out a few tunes as we were walking such as "Shut Up" by the Black Eyed Peas, and "Don't Stop the Music" by Rihanna, ha! I became his secretary throughout the tour, handling the map as he pointed to it and explained various things. At one point he said, "Where is my secretary? Come on, everyone, come to me!" (We were all walking at various paces and had headsets to hear Antonio tell us about the different sites). So he pulled me in front of him and asks,

"Do you have a boyfriend?"

"...Yes."

"Then why are you standing on a penis?"

Everyone laughs as we look down, only to see that I'm standing on carved picture of a penis. First of all, we were in the, sort of, "red light district" of the city; so Antonio continues to tell us that this particular marker was used by a lupa, (lit., "she-wolf," used to refer to the prostitutues), to let men know they were "available." And the fascinating part is really that this is all still here, and that we can know about it 2,000 years later. I have plenty of pictures on the Picasa link, so be sure to have a look-see. 

After a few hours in Pompeii, we hopped back on the charter bus (which we had taken from Rome) and made our way to Sorrento, where we stayed for the night. Dad, don't 
worry, we're starting to see where to money is going! This place was just beautiful. We were directly on the coast of the Mediterranean, on a cliff, overlooking the sea... just... perfect! After an early start to a long day, we didn't do much exploring, but the exploring we did was great. Sorrento seems like a quaint town that thrives a lot on tourism; not much to do, but plenty to see. Some of the girls and I could not stop talking about how content we were to be there. It was quiet and stunning and just so... Italian! We had a nice, included dinner at the hotel (very fancy) and had time to do whatever we pleased. 

Saturday morning we got up early to a complimentary breakfast that was full of beautiful pastries, fruit, bread, EGGS! (Haven't seen much of that lately), cereal and yogurt. Oh man, was it good. At 8:30 in the morning we made our way to a dock to board the boat that would take us to Capri. I'm not sure how long the ride actually was because I fell asleep. The inside of the boat was very much like a large airplane with the seating. You wouldn't have thought that you could still feel nauseous, but it happened. Sleeping helped keep it away. We made it to Capri by 11 or so, and Tom (the Student Services Coordinator of CEA) left us to our own devices on the island. He, first, gave us a quick rundown of how to get around, but we had to be discrete because you are not allowed to give information about the island unless you are a licensed tour guide. So we spared Tom putting himself in a situation where he could get arrested and dispersed until we were to meet back at 5pm. 

Where we docked was called the Marina Grande, I guess this was the lowest part of the island. Not much to see, just a few shops and restaurants. Here we dropped off our luggage for the day and took off to explore. Oh, well, when we first got there, the weather wasn't too great. It had rained a bit on our way there, but stopped when we arrived. It was still a bit cloudy, but the temperature was nice. The forecast hadn't been too promising, but not horrible. Well, we purchased tickets in advance to be able to take the cable car to Capri town, and from Capri town take the bus to get up to Anacapri, and then make our way down- (you need tickets for all the transportation; the island most definitely thrives on tourism). Our first stop was Capri. We didn't even realize it, but as we were going through a tunnel on the first part of the cable-car ride, the sun came out. When we got to Capri town (10 minute ride up), there was a terrace that gave an amazing view of the town below. There, we realized it was a beautiful start to a beautiful day. Jen, Donna, Stephanie and I ended up sticking together the majority of the day. We started by walking around, looking at the stores, window shopping and smelling the fresh waffle cones being made in the gelaterie. The whole place was full of designer shops and beautiful people, dressed to the nines. It's no joke that Italians take pride in their appearances. We stopped at a bar for the best panino and cannoli you'll ever have. We found a bench at the original terrace, overlooking the city and the sea, which is the picture at the very top. There we sat for a good hour, enjoying our food and the beauty of our surroundings. It was a moment where we all just sat quietly together in complete peace and contentment, just soaking in the scenery.

By then, it was probably about 1:30, and we decided to make our way, via bus, to Anacapri. Something I was dwelling on a bit on the way up was the fact that it seems as though life here, and a lot more of what I've seen, is part of the land. Things aren't destroyed to make room for inhabitants, the people took the land and made their lives fit to the curves of its body. It really hit me as we were driving up a narrow, windy road up the side of a mountain to get to the town above. We were let off at a place the was just bustling with activity; again, shops and restaurants all over the place. We set off to explore and see what Anacapri had to offer. We looked in some stores, really just taking our time and enjoying, what turned out to be, a beautiful day. We strolled down the streets, window shopping in stores such as BVLGARI and Prada and found some hidden alleyways and a fabulous little market that was tucked away in the curves of the town. 


Our main goal had been to find a place to go on a boat tour, but had no such luck. It actually just came to me that we never thought that it wouldn't be possible to get a tour of the coast, thousands of feet above the water. I guess our logic was left behind with our jaws, back at the window with the diamond the size of a quarter. Oh, well. As time passed us by, we came across the chair-lift that Tom told us about. We wanted to do it but weren't sure if it would be wise, seeing as it was a little after 3, or so, and we had to make our way back to the bottom of the island in a little over an hour. We decided to check out how long it would take, and after seeing it was an 8 euro ride, 12 minutes up and 12 minutes down, to see the entire island from a chair, we decided it was worth it. Boy, was it worth it. It was like a ski-lift, taking you up individually on a ride that allows you to see the entire island; the town, the hills, the sea. I mean, words just can't describe it. I felt like I was in a movie, in slow motion, panning over an incredible horizon. It was so peaceful in a chair by myself, being taken up the mountainside. After 12 lovely minutes, we were let off at the very top of the mountain, literally overseeing the ENTIRE island. .


After we took pictures and admired the mountain-top lounge areas, we made our way back down the lift and back to the Marina to meet the rest of the group. I can't think of a way to fully convey how much I enjoyed our whirlwind trip to Capri and the other parts of Campania. There are pictures to give a visual and this blog to add more description, but there's still no way to fully capture how wonderful this place truly is. As I get to experience something outside of Rome, I am getting to experience more of the beauty and richness that Italy has to offer. Alongside what I'm learning about the history and culture in my classes, I'm getting to experience it firsthand and I'm finally starting to feel like I'm not in a movie anymore.

Oh, and incase you were wondering: Capri e' l'isola che non si scorda mai, means, "Capri is the island that one can never forget."

2 comments:

Beefy Muchacho said...

The whole thing just sounds amazing. There are so many cool things you're doing, and standing on penii may be the most amazing. Ha. Kidding. You missed a crazy wind storm here today that killed most of the power in the city. 70mph winds.

Anyway, I'm so glad you're having the time you're having. Are you seeing many tattoos?

brianasdad said...

Wow....it all sounds amazing and wonderful and, well, everything....as it was how you'd pictured Italy before you left, it's very much how we'd hoped Italy would be for you (though I'm guessing that coming home will be the real culture shock down the road).

Btw...your writing is getting really good; you and your brother should do some project together..

Anyway, much love,
Dad